The Trend Toward 'Glassification'

Nekuda kwemabhenefiti ayo mazhinji, girazi kurongedza, riri kukwira kune ese anonhuwirira

uye zvizorwa.

Mapurasitiki ekurongedza matekinoroji akasvika kure mumakore achangopfuura, asi girazi rinoramba richitonga munzvimbo yekunhuhwirira kwepamusoro, skincare uye kurongedza kwemunhu, uko kunaka kuri mambo uye kufarira kwevatengi mu "zvakasikwa" kwakura kusanganisa zvese kubva pakuumbwa kusvika pakurongedza. .

"Kune zvakawanda zvinobatsira pakushandisa girazi kana tichienzanisa nezvimwe zvinhu," anodaro Samantha Vouanzi, maneja werunako,Estal.“Nokushandisa girazi, unokwezva pfungwa dzinoverengeka—Kuona: girazi rinopenya, uye kuratidzwa kwokukwana;Bata: chinhu chinotonhora uye chinokwezva kuchena kwechisikigo;Kurema: kunzwa kwehuremu kunotyaira kunzwa kwemhando.Kunzwa kwose uku hakugoni kupfuudzwa nechimwe chinhu.”

Grandview Tsvagiridzo yakakoshesa musika wepasi rose we skincare pamadhora zana nemakumi matatu nemashanu emadhora muna 2018, paine fungidziro yekuti chikamu chaive chagadzirira kukura 4.4% kubva 2019-2025 nekuda kwekuda kwemafuta ekumeso, sunscreens uye mafuta ekuzora.Kuwedzera kufarira mune zvakasikwa uye organic skincare zvigadzirwa zvakurawo, kutenda muchikamu chikuru kukuziva kwakatenderedza mhedzisiro yezvakagadzirwa zvinongedzo uye chishuwo chinotevera chezvimwe zvechisikigo zvinongedzo zvimwe.

Federico Montali, maneja wekushambadzira uye bhizinesi rekusimudzira,Bormioli Luigi, inoona kuti kwave nekufamba kwakanangana nekuwedzera "premiumization" -kushanduka kubva kupurasitiki kuenda kumagirazi ekurongedza-kunyanya muchikamu chekuchengetedza ganda.Girazi, anodaro, rinopa chinhu chakakosha zvakakosha kune yekutanga kurongedza zvinhu: kusimba kwemakemikari.“[Girazi] harina makemikari asingaiti, rinoita kuti rienderane nechigadzirwa chipi nechipi chorunako, kusanganisira magadzirirwo eganda asina kugadzikana,” anodaro.

Musika wepasi rose wemafuta anonhuhwirira, wagara uri imba yekurongedza magirazi, waikosheswa madhora mazana matatu nemakumi mana nemazana mana emadhora muna 31.4 nekukura kunofungidzirwa kuti kuchakwira kuda kusvika 4% kubva 2019-2025, maererano neGrandview Research.Nepo chikamu ichi chichienderera mberi nekufambiswa nekuzvishongedza uye kushandisa mari kunoitwa nemunhu, vatambi vakakosha vari kutarisisa kuunza zvinonhuhwirira zvechisikigo muchikamu cheprimiyamu, zvakanyanya nekuda kwekunetseka kuri kuwedzera pamusoro peallergies uye chepfu muzvigadzirwa zvekugadzira.Maererano neongororo iyi, vangangoita makumi manomwe neshanu muzana evakadzi veMireniyamu vanofarira kutenga zvigadzirwa zvechisikigo, nepo vanopfuura makumi mana neshanu muzana vavo vanofarira zvakasikwa-zvakavakirwa "zvinonhuhwirira zvine hutano."

Pakati pemagirazi ekurongedza maitiro mune runako uye kunhuhwirira zvikamu ndeye uptick mune "zvinovhiringidza" dhizaini, inomisikidzwa neunyowani maumbirwo anoratidzwa mukunze kana mukati megirazi rakaumbwa.Semuyenzaniso,Verescenceyakagadzira yakaomesesa uye yakaoma 100ml bhodhoro reIlluminare naVince Camuto (Parlux Boka) vachishandisa yayo patented SCULPT'in tekinoroji."Magadzirirwo matsva ebhodhoro akafemerwa negirazi kubva kuMurano, zvichimutsa macurves echikadzi uye ehunhu hwemukadzi," anotsanangura Guillaume Bellissen, mutevedzeri wemutungamiri, kutengesa uye kushambadzira.Verescence."Iyo asymmetrical organic yemukati chimiro…[inogadzira] mutambo wechiedza neyakatenderedzwa yekunze yegirazi rakaumbwa uye yakapfava yepingi inonhuhwirira."

Bormioli Luigiyakawana kuratidzwa kunoshamisa kwehunyanzvi uye hunyanzvi hwekuita nekugadzira bhodhoro rekunhuhwirira kutsva kwechikadzi, Idôle naLancôme (L'Oréal).Bormioli Luigi anogadzira iyo 25ml bhodhoro chete uye anogovera kugadzira kwe50ml bhodhoro mukutsvagisa kaviri nemupi wegirazi, Pochet.

"Bhodhoro racho rakatetepa zvakanyanya, geometrically rakatarisana nekugovaniswa kwegirazi rakafanana, uye madziro ebhodhoro akatsetseka zvekuti kurongedza kunenge kusingaonekwe kubatsira kwezvinonhuwira," Montali anotsanangura."Chinhu chakanyanya kuoma kukora kwebhodhoro (chete 15mm) izvo zvinoita kuti girazi riite dambudziko rakasiyana, kutanga nekuti kuiswa kwegirazi mune yakatetepa mold iri pamuganho wekuita, chechipiri nekuti kugoverwa kwegirazi kunofanirwa kunge kuri. kunyange uye nguva dzose pamwe chete neperimeter;[zvakaoma] zvikuru kuwana nekamuri duku kwazvo rokufambisa.”

Iyo bhodhoro slim silhouette zvinoreva zvakare kuti haigone kumira pachigadziko chayo uye inoda akakosha maficha pamabhandi ekugadzira mutsara wekutakura.

Iko kushongedzwa kuri pamucheto wekunze webhodhoro uye [inoshandiswa negluing] mabhureki esimbi pamativi e50ml uye, nemhedzisiro yakafanana, kupfapfaidza chikamu pamativi e25ml.

Intrinsically Eco-Hushamwari

Chimwe chinhu chakasiyana uye chinodiwa chegirazi ndechekuti inogona kudzokororwa nekusingaperi pasina kukanganiswa kwezvinhu zvayo.

"Magirazi mazhinji anoshandiswa kugadzira zvizorwa uye kunhuhwirira anogadzirwa kubva kuzvinhu zvakasikwa uye zvinogara zvinosanganisira jecha, limestone, uye soda ash," anodaro Mike Warford, maneja wezvekutengesa munyika.ABA Packaging."Zvigadzirwa zvakawanda zvemagirazi zvinorongedzerwa zvinogona kushandiswazve ne100% uye zvinogona kushandiswazve zvachose pasina kurasikirwa mumhando uye kuchena [uye zvinonzi] 80% yegirazi rinowanikwa rinogadzirwa kuita zvigadzirwa zvegirazi zvitsva."

“Glasi rava kuzivikanwa sechinhu chakakosha zvikuru, chakasikwa, chinogona kushandiswazve uye chinobatsira kwezvakatipoteredza nevazhinji vevatengi, kunyanya pakati peMillennials neGeneration Z,” inodaro Verescence's Bellissen."Semugadziri wegirazi, takaona kufamba kwakasimba kubva kupurasitiki kuenda kugirazi pamusika werunako rwekutanga kwemakore maviri apfuura."

Maitiro azvino ekumbundira girazi chinhu chinoshamisa chinonzi Bellissen chinoreva "girazi"."Vatengi vedu vanoda kubvisa purasitiki kurongedza kwavo kwerunako muzvikamu zvese zvepamusoro-soro zvinosanganisira skincare uye makeup," anodaro, achinongedza basa razvino raitwa naVerescence naEstée Lauder kushandura iyo yakanyanya kutengesa Advanced Night Repair Eye Cream kubva muchirongo chepurasitiki kuenda kugirazi mukati. 2018.

"Iyi maitiro egirazi yakakonzera chigadzirwa cheumbozha, zvese nepo budiriro yekutengeserana ichiwanikwa, yaifungidzirwa mhando yakawedzera zvakanyanya, uye kurongedzerwa kwave kushandiswazve."

Eco-inoshamwaridzika/inodzokorodza kurongedza ndechimwe chezvikumbiro zvepamusoro zvakagamuchirwa naIyo kambani Coverpla Inc."Nemutsetse wedu we eco-hushamwari wemabhodhoro nemajagi, vatengi vanogona kudzoreredza girazi, uye zvakare chigadzirwa chinozadzwa chinobvisa tsvina yakawandisa," anodaro Stefanie Peransi, mukati mekutengesa.

"Makambani ari kutora kuzadzazve kurongedza zvakanyanya nekuda kweeco-hushamwari kuve yakakosha mutsika dzemakambani mazhinji."

Coverpla's ichangoburwa bhodhoro regirazi rekuvhurwa ibhodhoro rayo idzva reParme 100ml, dhizaini, ovha uye denderedzwa-mafudzi dhizaini inoratidzira inopenya goridhe silk-screening, iyo kambani inoti inoratidza mashandisiro anoita simbi dzinokosha kushanda mukuwirirana negirazi kusimudza mwero. chigadzirwa mune premium, yakasarudzika.

Estal inogadzira uye inogadzira akaomesesa ekurongedza mapurojekiti ane tarisiro yekuvandudza uye yakanyanya rusununguko rwekugadzira, kuyedza zvinhu zvitsva, mimvuri, maumbirwo uye kushandisa hutsva hwehunyanzvi uye hwekushongedza mhinduro.Pakati peEstal's catalog yezvigadzirwa zvegirazi pane akati wandei siyana anofambiswa nedhizaini uye kusimba.

Semuenzaniso, Vouanzi anonongedza kuDoble Alto perfumery uye cosmetic range seimwe-ye-a-mhando mumusika."Doble Alto tekinoroji ine patent yakagadziriswa neEstal, iyo inobvumira kuunganidzwa kwegirazi kumire pazasi," anodaro."Tekinoroji iyi yakatitorera makore akati wandei kuti tinyatsotsanangurwa."

Pamberi pekuenderera mberi, Estal inodada zvakare kuve yakagadzira huwandu hwe100% PCR girazi mumashini otomatiki.Vouanzi anotarisira kuti chigadzirwa, chinodaidzwa kuti Wild Glass, chichanyanya kufarira runako rwepasirese uye mhando dzekunhuhwirira kumba.

Zvakabudirira muGlasi Rakavhenekerwa

Kuzadzisa girazi rakadzokororwa ndeimwe eco-inoshamwaridzika girazi imwe nzira: yakareruka girazi.Kuvandudzwa kwegirazi rekare rakadzokororwa, girazi rakareruka rinoderedza huremu uye vhoriyamu yekunze yepakeji, uku ichideredza zvakanyanya kushandiswa kwezvinhu zvakasvibiswa uye kuburitswa kwekabhoni dhaibhoni mukati meketani yekugovera.

Girazi rakavhenekerwa riri pakati peBormioli Luigi's ecoLine, mhando yemabhodhoro egirazi akareruka uye zvirongo zvezvizoro nekunhuhwirira."Dzidzo dzakagadzirwa kuti dzive dzakachena uye dzakareruka zvimiro uye kuti dzive dzakareruka sezvinobvira kuderedza zvinhu, simba uye CO2 kubuda," inotsanangura kudaro Montali yekambani.

Verescence yakabatana naGuerlain kuti irerutse girazi muzvigadzirwa zvayo zveAbeille Royale masikati neusiku, mushure mekuwana kubudirira nekuderedza uremu hwechirongo chayo cheOrchidée Impériale muna 2015. Verescence's Bellissen anoti Guerlain akasarudza Verre Infini NEO yekambani yake (inosanganisira 90% ye cullet kudzokorodza kunosanganisira 25% post-consumer cullet, 65% post-industrial cullet uye chete 10% yezvigadzirwa) zveAbeille Royale masikati nehusiku kuchengetedza zvigadzirwa.Sekureva kwaVerescence, chirongwa ichi chakaburitsa kuderedzwa kwe44% mucarbon footprint kwegore rimwe (inenge 565 matani mashoma CO2 emissions) uye kuderedzwa kwe42% mukushandiswa kwemvura.

Luxury Stock Glass iyo Inotaridzika Yakajairwa

Kana mabhureki achifunga girazi repamusoro-soro rekunhuhwirira kana runako, vanofungidzira zvisirizvo kuti zvakaenzana nekutuma dhizaini yetsika.Iyo ipfungwa isiriyo yakajairika kuti mabhodhoro ega ega anogona kuendesa yakakwira-yekupedzisira kukosha ruzivo nekuti stock girazi kurongedza kwasvika kure.

"Glass rekunhuhwirira kwepamusoro-soro rinowanikwa nyore sezvinhu zvesherufu muhukuru hwakasiyana-siyana uye zvitayera zvinosarudzwa zvakakurumbira," inodaro ABA Packaging's Warford.ABA yakapa mabhodhoro ekunhuhwirira epamusoro-soro, mating accoutrements uye mabasa ekushongedza kune indasitiri kubvira 1984. vamwe vevagadziri vakanaka kwazvo munyika. "

Warford anoenderera mberi achiti aya masherufu-stock mabhodhoro ayo, muzviitiko zvakawanda, anogona kutengeswa muhuwandu hwakaderera, anogona kushongedzwa nekukurumidza uye nehupfumi nemachira ekugadzira akapfapfaidza uye akadhindwa kopi kuti ape chiratidzo-chitarisiko icho mutengi ari kutsvaga."Nemhaka yekuti ane saizi yakajairika yekupedzisa mitsipa, mabhodhoro anogona kubatanidzwa neakanakisa anonhuwirira pombi uye akasiyana siyana emhando yepamusoro makepisi ekurumbidza chitarisiko."

Stock Girazi ine Twist

Mabhodhoro egirazi remasheya akave sarudzo yakanaka kuna Brianna Lipovsky, muvambi weMaison D'Etto, rudzi rwezvinonhuhwirira rwemhando yepamusoro rwakatanga nguva pfupi yadarika runyoro rwekunhuhwirira rusina kwayakarerekera kune varume nevakadzi, rwakagadzirwa kuti “rukurudzire nguva dzekubatana, kugadzikana, kugara zvakanaka.”

Lipovsky nekurwadziwa akaswedera kune chimwe chinhu mukugadzirwa kwepakiti yake nekunyatsotarisisa kune zvakadzama.Akaona kuti mutengo wemastock molds uye MOQs pamakumi mashanu etsika mayunitsi waidhura wairambidza kune yake anozvipa mari.Uye mushure mekuongorora zvinopfuura zana nemakumi mashanu emabhodhoro magadzirirwo nemasaizi kubva kune vakasiyana vagadziri., Lipovsky akazosarudza yakasarudzika, 60ml stock bhodhoro kubva kuBrosse kuFrance, rakapetwa neane ushingi sculptural, domed cap kubva.Siloainoita seyakayangarara pamusoro pebhodhoro regirazi.

“Ndakafarira maumbirwo ebhodhoro racho zvichienderana nekepisi zvekuti kunyangwe dai ndaiita zvechivanhu hapana zvazvainyanya kuita,” anodaro.“Bhodhoro racho rinokwana zvakanaka muruoko rwemukadzi nerwemurume, uye rinobata zvakanaka uye rinobata ruoko kune mumwe munhu akura angave ane arthritis.”

Lipovsky anobvuma kuti kunyangwe bhodhoro iri riri muhunyanzvi, akaraira Brosse kuti aronge katatu girazi rakashandiswa kugadzira mabhodhoro ake mukuyedza kuona kuti chigadzirwa chekupedzisira chaive chemhando yepamusoro uye nehunyanzvi.“Rudzi rwacho rwakanga rwuri rwekutsvaga mitsetse yokugovera mugirazi—pamusoro, pasi nepamativi,” anotsanangura kudaro."Havana kukwanisa kubatidza bhechi randaifanira kutenga kubva pavanenge vachiwana mamirioni panguva, saka takavabatawo katatu kuti vasaonekwe zvakanyanya mumasoni."

Mabhodhoro ezvinonhuwira akagadziridzwa zvakare neImprimerie du Marais."Isu takagadzira chinyorwa chakareruka uye chakaomesesa tichishandisa isina kuvharwa Rudzi Rokuronga bepa rine tambo mameseji, izvo zvinounza hupenyu hwekuvaka uye mapatani emhando yemhando ine inoyevedza yegirinhi silkscreen yerudzi," anodaro.

Mhedzisiro ndeye chigadzirwa Lipovsky inodada zvisingaite.Unogona kuita kuti mafomu ekutanga ezvitoro aite seanopenga nekuravira, dhizaini uye kutarisisa kune zvakadzama, izvo zvinoratidzira humbozha mumaonero angu, ”anopedzisa.

ROLLON副本


Nguva yekutumira: Mar-18-2021